New Winter  Routes 2010

Eagle Mountain

Ian Rea and Kieran O'Hara have managed to squeeze in a couple of 

new winter routes on Eagle Mountain this January.

Buckeye Jim   120 m, 111 	I.Rea and K.O'Hara, 1/1/10

Starts just below and left of Corpse Alley and climbs the vegetated 

mixed ground left of Musical Cracks. Climb a steep leftward rising 

ramp into a vague gully which leads up to a rocky alcove. 

Go up and make a long horizontal traverse beneath a steep wall to 

gain easier ground. Finish up and left.
             
Cold Harbor   55 m, V,(4,6)	 I.Rea and K. O'Hara, 8/1/10

Above the difficult step in Great Gully is a turfy buttress, bounded on 

the right by the gully and on the left by a dark right facing corner.
(1) 30m. Climb the difficult step in Great Gully, step left and climb up 

the middle of the turfy buttress to belay at a huge thread below a small 

overhang. 
(2) 25m. Go round overhang on the right and up obvious left slanting 

line. Steep and strenuous but very well protected and with good turf 

where it matters.
(3) 100m. Finish up easier ground left of Great Gully.