The Dark Side*** E8 6c 55m A Marshall, C Hiller 1/10/09 (Headpoint)
This route takes the obvious orange wall right of
Track of the Cat.
Start at the bottom of a flake and crack line in the middle of the wall.
Climb the flakes which leads to a short crack with a pedestal at the top of
it. Move up and left from this to a good ledge. Scuttle left to the base of
another flake system. Climb the flakes, awkward, to reach a good flat hold,
arrange gear here then move up and right along a series of face holds with
long reaches and the gear left behind. A quick mantle allows the entry into a
groove system. Follow this groove to the top with a balancy move which
leads right towards the large ledges. Climb the ledges and arrange gear in
the crack at the top of them. Step down and right and climb the next series
of face holds (crux) to a good flat hold in the middle of the wall, move up
and right with a long move leaving you stretching to reach the arête. Follow
the arête with an ever increasing run-out to just below the top. With a good
rest and a breathtaking mantle the top thankfully comes into reach.